For 2022, Oris brings its newest inhouse movement, the Calibre 400, to a smaller, more subtle, and in some cases more colorful take on the titanium ProPilot X.
The Release
The ProPilot X Calibre 400 marks the first addition to the ProPilot X line since its inception with the original Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 in late 2019. The Calibre 400, Oris’s new in-house movement, sports a five-day power reserve and a date display. It is a full 4mm smaller in diameter than the Calibre 115 (30 vs 34mm), which undoubtedly aided in achieving the 39mm diameter of the new ProPilot X Calibre 400. Dimensions aside, the new release retains the angular case and bracelet styling and titanium construction of the original, including a crown nestled between guards and a proprietary folding clasp. The new model has dial options of grey, blue, or a salmon color that Oris calls both red and pink on their product page.
The Context
This release is on trend with the market’s desire for sporty and sometimes colorful everyday watches, yet the Oris ProPilot X Caliber 400 will never be mistaken for any other watch. It has the ruggedness of the tool watches Oris is known for with the flair the brand has been hitting on for the past few years. Due to the in-house movement and titanium construction, its pricepoint of $4300 is naturally higher than that of an entry level Oris such as the Big Crown Pointer Date at $1750. On the other hand, it is a veritable bargain when compared to the $7600 Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 if you prefer a smaller watch or don’t care for skeletonization.
Our thoughts
The ProPilpot X isn’t really a pilot watch in any traditional sense (any more than say, an Oyster Perpetual 41 is a pilot watch), and I don’t think that’s a bad thing. It retains the necessary large dial and legibility of a pilot’s watch, but otherwise feels modern and fresh without a hint of being derivative of some other design or era. My pick would be the salmon color, and I am glad to see that Oris ventured a bit into the colorful dial trend without going all-in on turquoise. Moreover, I’m excited to see Oris advancing in movement development and trying new things at a time when so many brands are relying on remakes from their back catalogs and minor changes to existing designs.There aren’t many Swiss titanium watches with in-house movements for under $5000; if you are shopping in this price segment and appreciate the unique styling this piece has to offer, it certainly looks like a winner.
Availability
The ProPilot X Calibre 400 is available now online directly from Oris or via its numerous authorized dealers. All colorways are priced at $4300. You can find out more via Oris’s website.
