Here’s your digest of all the new watches released this week. Instead of boring you with spec-by-spec descriptions of every release and trying to dazzle you with deep thoughts and insights, this simple digest gives you the basics plus our two cents—sometimes so brief it’ll seem like just one cent. You’re welcome.
Ball Watch X CronotempVs Engineer III 00RED
Ball has teamed up with collector group CronotempVs to create a slambang grey-and-red edition of its Engineer III. This wasn’t so simple as a color change, though. All-new on this limited edition are the double 0 at 12 o’clock, a raised chapter ring, the blackout handset, and the grey painted dial. It’s quite a lovely design that reminds me of the recent Romain Gauthier C, which is never a bad thing. The drawbacks? A 43mm case with 21mm lugs. Limited to 91 pieces at €2,200 exclusively from CronotempVs.
Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve
The kings of the box sapphire have released an inexplicably limited pilot’s chronograph with a power reserve indicator! The release is a grey variant of the brand’s Pilot Power Reserve Chronometer and clocks in at 41.8mm with a height of 15.9mm. It features the COSC-certified Brellum BR-750-PR (a modified ETA 7750). I’m not really sure what the impetus or the significance of this watch is to make it a 23-piece LE—it’s just the grey version of an existing model with an extra 50m of water resistance. And it’s the same price as the regular versions but without the bracelet! It’s pretty, but I don’t understand it. Limited to 23 pieces at S3,150 from Brellum.
Hanhart 417 ES 1954
Hanhart is clearly listening to the market and responding with the nimbleness of the small brand they are. Just two years after (successfully) bringing the 417 ES back in an upsized 42mm case, Hanhart is doing the right thing and issuing the watch in its original 39mm size. 39mm is a sweet spot for many and having a fully functional chrono with 100m of water resistance at that size is just smashing. There will be a pro-bund/anti-bund clamor, but don’t forget taht straps aren’t permanent! If the look and the specs weren’t enough to lure you in, need I remind that Steve McQueen, the King of Cool himself, wore one? €1,980 from Hanhart.
Lang 1943 Edition One
People [read: other people who write about watches] are excited about this because it heralds the return of Gerd-Rüdiger Lang, the septuagenarian founder of Chronoswiss and standard bearer for contemporary watchmaking. That’s according to those other people. Frankly, I’ve got no idea. What I see is a solid vintage-inspired military field watch that’s executed to near perfection (whatever your thoughts may be on the lume). The watch is 39mm in diameter and just 8.4mm tall. It’s powered by the Lang’s own Caliber L43.1, a vintage Marvin 700 that’s been refurbished, restored, and redecorated (Mr. Lang acquired all the remaining Marvin stock in the 1980s). It’s not cheap, but it is pretty. And here’s to an old guy making a comeback! $3,700 from Lang 1943.
Maurice de Mauriac 25th Anniversary Watches
To celebrate its 25th anniversary, Maurice de Mauriac hasn’t simply released a special dial or color, but two entirely new models. The 44mm chrono “Big Date” and the 39mm “Züri Date” both feature blue PVD cases and blue straps (leather or rubber are available for both). The chrono represents the first big date chronograph from the brand, sporting a manufacture caliber built for MdM by Concepto. Similarly, the other is the first model with a day-date in this configuration, featuring an ETA 2834-2. The watches are both lumed on the hands and numerals. Maybe not hitting the blue watch craze at its peak, but this is a pretty cool release. the fully blued watches (even the rotor and the caseback) are one thing, but MdM’s working with Concepto may be a sign of exciting things to come. Limited to 25 pieces each at CHF 11,295 and CHF 4,925 from Maurice de Mauriac.
Stowa Flieger Verus 40 Vintage 95
Here I thought we’d moved past fauxtina. Didn’t Longines win that race with the Heritage Military? Maybe most of us have moved on, but Stowa hasn’t. This limited edition flieger celebrates Stowa’s 95th anniversary, apparently by appearing as though it experienced all the wars that occurred during those years. But also, the hands are bright blue? Credit where credit is due: the rounded numerals are charmingly quaint. The 40mm watch has a Sellita SW200 movement. It’s not the Stowa I’d buy, but to each their own. Limited to 95 pieces at €1,295 from Stowa.
Bravur Grand Tour La Grande Boucle 2022
Bravur has updated its Grand Tour La Frande Boucle for 2022. The 38.5mm chrono has a Sellita SW511 automatic chronograph movement, with a manageable thickness of 14.4mm. What’s new for this year’s edition? The green polka dot dial has been turned grey, reticles have been added to the subdials, and the baton hour markers have been replaced with bold round markers. This watch is a bit more fun than its predecessor, mostly owing to the round markers and the bright yellow FKM rubber strap (it’s also available on black FKM or a Milanese mesh bracelet). Limited to 50 pieces at $2,550+ from Bravur.
Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline
If Oris didn’t exist, Bell & Ross would be unrivaled in its pace of releases. Second ain’t bad, though! Bell and Ross has added a bit of texture to its smash hit BR 05 with the Artline, carving deep vertical grooves into the bezel and the bracelet’s small links. The brand describes it as folded metal, calling to mind the corrugated metal of old airplanes and the style of urban architecture. Sometimes B&R can be a bit romantic, but they also reference Streamline Moderne design, which I can definitely see. The brand has added flourishes to the BR 05 before in the form of diamond encrusting, but I think this plays much better. Limited to 250 pieces at $5,500 from Bell & Ross.
Oak and Oscar Humboldt Seven Year
Oak and Oscar is celebrating its seventh anniversary in style. The Humboldt Seven Year is a two-tone take on the brand’s classic three-hander. This time, they’ve really upped the ante on the 39.5mm watch. The extremely limited model has bezels crafted by hand in-house, made from 693 Eco Brass. The brass dials are hand-finished and accented by what I’ll go ahead and call Oak and Oscar Grey. The watch features a Sellita SW-300 movement. Limited to 10 pieces at $2,500, exclusively available from Oak and Oscar at Windup Watch Fair Chicago, July 14-16.