Review: Sinn 556i

Time keeping and travel have been intertwined for as long as we’ve been venturing out, and watchmaking in particular has a long history that parallels the exploration age. Starting with the invention of the maritime chronometer by Harrison in the 1750’s (for a great and quick read, check out Longitude by Dava Sobel) to the advances made in the early 20th century in conjunction with aviation, the wristwatch has been a companion to travelers all the way.

Since its founding in 1961 in Frankfurt am Main, Sinn Spezialuhren has been known as a producer of purpose-built pieces, and the introduction of the 556i in 2008 brought to market a modern, reliable and incredibly well-built watch to its collection.

Aviation instruments have always inspired Sinn’s designs—founder Helmut Sinn was a former WWII pilot—and the simplicity of design and legibility of the 556i dial and hands combination brings to mind the altimeter of vintage aircraft (nothing more important than that). One needs but a simple glance at the watch and the hands pop out of that deep black dial and tell their story.

The Case

The 556i features a satinized and brushed case with a modest lug-to-lug which, in combination with their slightly curved shape, makes for a very comfortable watch for those of us with…wrist-size challenges. The bezel, which surrounds the AR-coated sapphire crystal, is a simple and straightforward affair, which matches the rest of the modern design with sharp edges and a satinized finish.

Finally, the large screw-down crown is adorned with the brand’s “S” logo and protected by crown guards, which smoothly connect with the rest of the case, giving the design an undeniably industrial feel. A depth rating of 200m is standard.

It wears wonderfully. This is a personal opinion naturally, but the proportions, size of the case and shape of the lugs are in the sweet spot. There are no sharp edges anywhere and that makes for an ideal everyday piece. I have a 6.5” wrist, and the trend towards watches larger than 40mm it’s always been a bit of a problem. So, the 38.5mm diameter and short lugs are just about perfect. It’s not a particularly light watch at about 136g (sized), but the weight makes it feel substantial.

The Dial

Oh, the dial… I could write a whole article about this dial. Not because of how many complications or details or extra features it has, but because of the lack of them. And that makes it special. Its surface is a deep black, and the handset is a study in simplicity.

The hour and minute hands are sharp, wide, and incredibly clean, and fully lumed, to boot. The seconds hand, which can be ordered in plain white (my preference) or in red, has no lume, but it adds to the simplicity and clarity of the design. The hour markers are lumed painted batons, and the minute marks are bright and clear, although they lack lume themselves. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock, a complication I favor, but given the size of the watch, it could be bigger. In my dreams, I would add a cyclops to this watch or make the date window 50% larger.

There’s no extraneous type on the face except the Sinn logo, the word Automatik, and not much else. Ok, it also has a diminutive “Made in Germany” type at 6 o’clock, but combined, these attributes make the 556i the most legible watch I’ve ever had the pleasure of gazing into. Bar none. It’s a gloriously monochromatic affair.

It’s unclear exactly what type of lume Sinn uses, but the good money is on Super-LumiNova. The simplicity of its design and the fact that the hands and hour markers have full lume make for a great low-light watch, although its charge doesn’t last very long.

The Rest

At its heart, a Swiss-made, Sinn-sourced top-grade ETA 2824 movement (though the Sinn site lists a Sellita SW200-1 on new models) gives the watch a reliable and robust soul. The automatic rotor, in brass, is engraved with the Sinn logo and, in keeping with the simplicity of the design, nothing else. Both can be seen through a sapphire transparent case back. The movement, by the way, is protected against magnetism.

The 20mm wide H-link bracelet, a Sinn specialty, complements the clean design quite well. It features solid end links, Hex-Bolt screws and, with its drilled lugs, makes swapping the bracelet a straightforward proceeding (Sinn provides a bracelet adjustment tool with the box). When ordering, one can choose from a variety of available straps, even a dressier “Fine Link” bracelet, but the H-link is the one that works best with the design, in my opinion.

The milled clasp, with an engraved Sinn logo, has a lock and an extension system, presumably for diving or for using the watch over a heavy leather jacket, but I’ve never had to use it. In fairness, I don’t dive, nor do I tend to wear my watches over my jacket, but even still it seems superfluous. Speaking of that clasp, and to some degree the rest of the watch, it is, unfortunately, a scuff magnet.

You see, the satinized steel used in these watches, although quite attractive to the eye, is also attractive to every kind of abrasive surface, and those encounters tend to scratch it quite readily. Fans of the brand have been waiting for a version of the watch with the company’s tough-as-nails tegimented steel, but so far, no luck.

Tool watches are often difficult to define. What is a tool after all? Possibly any device that tells time could be described as a tool. But if cultural trends and tastes are taken into account, then the 556i is possibly the über tool watch. As I mentioned before, there’s no extra information on the face except the Sinn logo and the word Automatik. The deep black dial and sharp white hands tell time in a clear way and the tough ETA movement makes sure the watch will run reliably for years. Yes, the steel has a way of attracting scratches, but in a way it’s apropos of the watch’s tool-like demeanor. The date window could be a little bigger and thus more readable, but it’s not a deal breaker in my opinion.

What makes this watch special, and Sinn as a brand in general, is that it’s not a watch and brand that mimics anyone. It’s an undisputed unique design. Industrial, clean, with superb craftsmanship and engineering and with no unnecessary bling anywhere. This may sound cliché perhaps, but it’s very German. In closing, if one is looking for a modern yet classic and reliable piece, one can do a lot worse than the fantastic Sinn 556i.

The 556i is available in a combination of dial colors, bracelets and straps, including a new series or just-released colorful dials, starting at $1,290 for the leather strap and $1,530 for the H-link bracelet from the U.S. authorized dealer, WatchBuys. You can learn more about the watch directly from Sinn.