This guest review is brought to us by Da’Vid, an avid collector and watch enthusiast who you can follow on Instagram at @bridgeandcannon.
Initially the Tornek-Rayville TR-660 was going to be a catch and release for a watch review. Fast forward several months and now I’m writing an owner’s review. By now I’m sure the majority of you have read at least several reviews concerning the Tornek-Rayville TR-660. As such I’m certain many of you are familiar with how a Blancpain-esque dive watch became official equipment of the U.S. Navy.
To summarize the events: the U.S. Navy was outfitting their UDT unit. Just so happened Blancpain was capable of meeting the U.S. military specification MIL- W-22176A with some changes. However, the existing legislation prevented the military from using non-U.S. companies to fill the request. In order to remedy the “Buy American Act” Allen Tornek rebranded the watch Tornek-Rayville and made the necessary changes to material and sourcing of parts.
Fast forward to the 2000’s and a gentleman by the name of Bill Yao became the owner/custodian of the Tornek-Rayville brand. Yes, the same Bill Yao that created MKII. As someone that knew of the MKII brand but never handled their watches I didn’t have any preconceived expectations concerning Tornek. Once I was able to acquire one I instantly understood how Bill Yao has been able to attract such a strong following.
Now that the introduction and pleasantries have been addressed let’s get to the nitty gritty. The TR-660 and the TR-900 share a common lineage. It’s evident when comparing the two to a vintage Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Milspec I. The cases are remarkably similar but have their own identity. The TR-660 measures 40mm wide, a length of 48.5 lug to lug, and a thickness of 14.7mm as per the specifications listed on the website. The TR-660’s 40mm width is 1mm smaller than TR-900. I have an approximately 7 3/8” wrist so that missing 1mm is noticeable to me. With that being said Bill has done a fine job proportionally sizing other aspects of the watch as not to draw excessive attention to the smaller case. It feels quite comfortable on the wrist and looks neither diminutive nor oversized.
Given that the original purpose of the watch was for military use the bead blasted surface fits appropriately. It gives the case a nice uniform finish that does not attract attention like polished steel. The crown is significantly larger than the original. However, the increased size is not out of place and is a welcome change. I don’t enjoy fidgeting with an unnecessarily small crown when adjusting the time. Thankfully, a happy medium was achieved.
One of the standouts would have to be the unidirectional bezel. There is a fluid feel when adjusting it around the dial. It’s has muted click with the right amount of resistance and back play. The teeth on the bezel grip but don’t catch on my clothing. And the bezel insert is where I believe the watch really ties together. Almost serving as an introduction from the case, crystal and finally to the dial and hands. It looks as though it was poured into place. I had to use a loupe to see the spacing between the bead blasted steel and the acrylic. The triangle, hour markers and numerals on the bezel are luminous and easily legible.
The TR-660 dial isn’t much different than the original TR-900. The minute markers, hour, and Tornek-Rayville U.S. detailing look similar to the vintage examples. There is an ample amount of lume. You shouldn’t have any difficulty determining the time.
The moisture indicator is a detail that I am glad wasn’t eliminated. It’s as much a part of the models’ heritage and identity as the Tornek name. While it’s not actually functioning, it helps balance the dial. The hour and minute hand are sized well. The hour hand just barely touches then 3, 6, and 9 markers. The minute and second hand reach the stick markers on the edge with a generous amount of lume applied.
The movement is where collectors may express some contention. The TR-660 houses the Seiko Instruments SII NE15. The movement has hacking seconds, manual winding, 50 hour power reserve, and a date feature that is not in use for this model. As a result of the date feature not being utilized there is a ghost date position when operating the crown. This is by no means a deal breaker for me. However, some collectors may consider the movement choice a cost saving decision. Fortunately, Tornek’s owner is known to be a stickler for details, quality control and not for skimping on a product for the sake of profit.
To try and sum things up the TR-660 is not meant to be a vintage copy of the TR-900. Rather it is the updated succession to the TR-900. What you will find is a well-built nicely finished tool watch that is in fact a tool watch. Unlike many other brands it doesn’t have a production line and generic feel. It has history, style, and the ruggedness to complete the task. Appropriately priced at $950.00 the buyer should feel confident knowing Bill Yao has done a fine job of resurrecting the Tornek-Rayville name with the T-660. I look forward to seeing what other models follow.
You can find out more on the Tornek-Rayville website.
