Who is Stéphane Oes? This is a question that for a brief period was asked leading up-to and perhaps immediately following this year’s BaselWorld. And a question very few people will be asking in the years to come.
This year saw the debut of the Constant Escapement. Perhaps the most talked about revelation to come out of 8 days full of revelations. After absenting themselves from BaselWorld for the past several years, Girard-Perregaux made one of the biggest splashes at the fair, and fired a warning shot that resonated around the halls – they are SERIOUS about innovation!
And one of the men most closely involved with this exciting development? Not a household name… yet!
And now a few minutes with Stéphane Oes.
Tempus Fugit – What was your first watch? Was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?
Stéphane Oes – A Heuer chronograph from the 70’s – It was a present from my grand dad who was a watch engraver.
TF – When you were a boy, what did you want to be when you “grew-up”?
SO – I was dreaming of becoming an ice-hockey player.
TF – Where did you go to school? What did you study?
SO – I graduated from the university in Le Locle where I received a Master of Science in engineering.
TF – How did you become involved in the watch industry in the first place?
SO – The diploma work I completed in the frame of my Master of Science was for Girard-Perregaux.This was one of my first involvements in the watch industry and I have been working for GP since then.
My granddad was a watch engraver and used to repair watches and clocks during his spare time. When I was a boy I loved playing and bothering him in his watch workshop.
TF – Where did the idea for the Constant Escapement come from?
SO – The story began when Nicolas Déhon who had the idea of the escapement while he was playing with a train ticket on his way home. Bending and releasing the ticket, he realized the use that could be made of the bi-stable properties of a buckled-blade within an escapement, this idea was simply genius. But that was only the beginning of the story…
TF – How long did this project take?
SO – It took years to develop the project from the idea to the final working watches. At Girard-Perregaux, Nicolas Déhon worked years to developed the first working escapement prototypes based on this concept and presented it in 2008. It then took another 5 years to finalize the development and to integrate the escapement into a dedicated movement.
TF – During the development of the Constant Escapement, did you ever “hit the wall”? Were there ever any moments of doubt?
SO – Naturally, several time. I always have moments of doubts during the development of projects. I believe this is natural and it is sound to have doubts. The constant escapement development was special in this respect because we were progressing in totally new fields. This concept is revolutionary in every aspect and differs from all existing systems. It is a long adventure full of questions, doubts, discoveries, achievements and joy.
TF – So after such an amazing feat, it might be hard to imagine, but what’s the next big thing?
SO – For obvious reason, it is hard for me to tell… but with the Constant Escapement we have a wonderful platform for future development and evolution.
TF – There are more than a few manufactures out there, what makes Girard-Perregaux special?
SO – A true manufacture is not something that is improvised, as I think of it as an integrated production that possesses strong, authentic capacity to innovate. Very few brands have this capacity. At Girard-Perregaux, it is linked to a culture that encourages forward-thinking that empowers, and nurtures talent. GP has given birth to some of the most exceptional timepieces, because there is a firm belief in growing talent. This was a real opportunity to be entrusted with a concept like the Constant Escapement while I was so young… I love the idea that this is still a human-sized manufacture.
TF – Who else out there is making watches that interest you?
SO – I believe the Cartier ID one and two are really innovative. Patek Philippe’s work with silicon escapements is really interesting too, bringing a true improvement for the Swiss lever escapement. In terms of aesthetics, I like MB&F who break the codes and the rules of the watch industry.
TF – If you weren’t doing this, what do you think you might be doing?
SO – I would love being a scuba diving instructor. But on a more serious note, I could be an architect.
TF – What do you like to do in your spare time?
SO – I love sport in general. I play hockey and I love skiing. I am also the President of an association, ‘Raphaël – Unis contre le cancer’. The association aims at helping people to fund treatment for orphans with diseases and help provide them with cancer treatment. And unluckily, sometimes helping people to realize their last dreams.
TF – Who is the next “Stéphane Oes” out there?
SO – This is too much of an honor for me. I am young and have a lot to accomplish yet. The Constant Escapement development was a team effort which must be associated with several people from the R&D team and our laboratory. Without forgetting the CSEM in Neuchatel whose role in developing the silicon blade was key. As I said before, Girard-Perregaux empowers talent and imagination so look out for our next developments…
TF – What advice do you have for aspiring watch makers/movement designers?
SO – Again I am too young to give advice… wisdom comes with age. As for myself, I try to think out of the box: being open to emerging technologies and looking to other industries (specifically in the field of mechanics), turning things inside-out or sometimes inviting randomness. Lastly, the balance between technology and design has to be very sharp and coherent.
