Here’s your digest of all the new watches released this week. Instead of boring you with spec-by-spec descriptions of every release and trying to dazzle you with deep thoughts and insights, this simple digest gives you the basics plus our two cents—sometimes so brief it’ll seem like just one cent. You’re welcome.
Oris Aquis Date Cherry 43.5
Not an entirely new watch, the Aquis Date Cherry 43.5 builds off the success of the Aquis Date Cherry 41.5 released last year. Same cherry dial, same lovely relief bezel, same Oris 733 caliber (based on the Sellita SW200-1). While I find the 41.5mm Aquis to be ideal, I suppose there are some who still prefer larger watches. For those folks, Oris has delivered. $2,300 from Oris.
Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Two-Tone
The cherry is on top, but these two-tone Calibre 400s are the sundae. Continuing its expansion of offerings featuring its in-house Calibre 400, Oris dropped green- and blue-dial Aquis Dates in the 41.5mm case. The watches feature an 18k gold bezel and deep-hued ceramic bezel inserts, plus the option of a color-matched rubber strap. There are two important takeaways here. First, two-tone watches are back and are happening whether you like it or not. Second, I don’t think it will be long before Oris completely ditches third-party movements in favor of its own—two years, max. $4,400–$4,600 from Oris.
Hadley Rille Escadrille 43
American newcomer Hadley Rille has just announced its debut pilot watch. Measuring 43mm and driven by a Soprod C111 automatic movement, the Escadrille 43 has a very vintage look to it, with a classic round case and bezel and a very vintage leather band. Nothing really stands out as special here and the small, deeply recessed date appears a bit too close to the 3. However, there does seem to be great legibility all around, which is essential for a proper pilot watch. The Escadrille 43 is currently in preorder, with delivery set for six months after funding. $1,395 from Hadley Rille.
Welsbro Staten Island Collection
Weslbro is back with its fourth model, the Staten Island. Slightly less limited than previous releases, 30 pieces each will be available in Italian Ices (blue), Gabagool (pink), and Mutz (green). The watches measure 39mm x 12.6mm with 19mm lugs and 30m water resistance. Inside, there’s a refurbished France Ebauches 4612 movement circa 1975 with the day and date removed. They’ll ship with two leather straps coordinated to the dial. The 19mm lugs are a bummer and you should know that there is a phantom date position on the crown (but kudos to Welsbro for being clear about it). Other than that, these are fun, funky watches from a brand committed to being fun and funky. $880 from Welsbro.
Furlan Marri 2116-A “Black Sector”
The brand with the most successful watch Kickstarter ever has just announced its second model, and it’s rather beautiful. Another classically designed, vintage-inspired watch, the 2116-A “Black Sector” considerably ups the ante from the smash hit mecaquartz chronograph. With a 37.5mm x 10.5mm case, it has a top grade automatic Swiss movement from La Joux-Perret and absolutely gorgeous cornes de vache lugs with bushed sides. The applied Breguet numerals and leaf hands appear exceptionally elegant, though the wide seconds track around the periphery seems to unnecessarily crowd the dial. Can Furlan Marri repeat its success? Maybe. What’s more exciting is that this is just the first of four colorways for the model. CHF 1,250 from Furlan Marri.
Pinion Neutron
British brand Pinion has released its most wearable model yet. The new Neutron series—available in pink, black, and blue—checks in at 38mm, and is the “spiritual successor” to the retired Pinion Atom. I’m sure the smaller size will be a welcome addition to the brand’s current catalog of 42mm watches. The multilayered dial with central guilloche looks gorgeous and is made very modern by the bold numerals. Some may groan over the use of Old Radium lume on the hands, but since it’s used as a design and not to imitate aging, I’m fine with it. The Neutron is powered by an ETA 2824-2 and ships with a leather strap and a single-piece nylon strap. £1,000 from Pinion.
