Ollech & Wajs seems like a new brand to me. Before I got these pieces to review, I thought they must be a recently launched micro or revived vintage brand. I didn’t even know how to pronounce the name (Owe-leck and Wise—you’re welcome). I was surprised and intrigued to find they’ve been quietly making watches since the 1950s; near as I can tell in continuous production since 1956. Albert Wajs, an original founder, ran the brand himself until 2017, when it was sold to a new private owner. The brand continues to be privately owned and operated to this day.

Ollech & Wajs produces a modest catalog, comprising mostly of divers and pilot watches, built around a single case design. It’s very specific on the website about the origin of each of its watches’ components, listing where the case, strap, packaging and assembly each take place.

Ollech & Wajs Pilot Watches

It was a unique and particular pleasure to learn about the brand and the history through a hands-on experience with two of its pilot watches, the P-101 and P-104. To be noted is that the case, crown, and bezel (minus printing) are identical between these two watches. If you like one, you’ll probably like the other.

Ollech & Wajs P-101 & P-104 Pilot Watch Specs


Case Diameter

39.5mm

Crystal

Sapphire

Case Thickness

12.5mm

Lume

Super-LumiNova/Orange Super-LumiNova

Lug-to-Lug

49.5mm

Strap/Bracelet

NATO, Two-Stitch Leather, Steel Bracelet

Lug Width

20mm

Movement

ETA 2824-2

Water Resistance

300m

Price

$1,084-$1,330

The Case

My initial reaction to the case shape was that it was clearly inspired by 60’s and 70’s skin diver cases; long lugs, one straight surface on the top of the lugs, slim, straight-sided midcase. In doing research on vintage pilot watches, however, I discovered a number of them from the 1940s through the 1950s had a very similar case design—Hanhart chronographs, for example, with the coin edge bezels. There’s even some similarity to the venerable Angelus chronographs of the 40s. It’s a classic case shape that does a lot to bring the mid-century feels to the watch.

Ollech & Wajs Pilot Watches

The case finishing is nothing particularly noteworthy; the transitions between horizontal and vertical surfaces are simple, straight, and sharp enough to not look sloppy. Certainly a jewel-like finish would clash with the purpose-driven, almost grim design and aesthetic, and keeping it simple was a good choice for this watch. The tops of the lugs have a slight sloping curve that makes the midcase flow symmetrically to the ends of the lugs—a nice touch.

Ollech & Wajs Pilot Watches

Both the P-101 and P-104 have black PVD bezels; the P-101 with a simple 12-hour scale and the P-104 with a full slide rule. I haven’t the faintest idea how to use a slide rule scale, but I love the visual effect of it. Both scales appear to be deeply etched into the bezel and filled with paint (bright white for the P-104, and cream for the P-101), and under a loupe I was very impressed with the crispness and evenness of both.

These bezels are bi-directional with a friction mechanism. My only previous exposure to friction bezels before was with Vostok dive watches, and so perhaps my standards are particularly low, but I really like the action on these O&W friction bezels. There is zero side to side play or looseness in them, they are tight enough to feel secure and solid, but have a buttery smooth action when rotating. On the watch I wore the most, I noticed the bezel loosen up a bit from use; it remained completely tight and smooth but became easier to operate. If you, like many a watch enthusiast, have written off friction bezels as somehow being inherently inferior to ratcheting ones, I challenge you to try out one of these watches. I think these are perfectly suited to the style of watch and applaud O&W’s choice to incorporate them.

Ollech & Wajs Pilot Watches

The crown screws down and is quite large at 7mm in diameter. If the P-101 and P-104 had much more refinement or polish to them, they might feel a bit too large. With the no frills composition of the rest of the watch, however, it fits in well. The O&W logo on the end (one of my favorites of any brand logo) is a nice touch. 

On the wrist these watches wear as expected: very comfortably and well. The lugs are perhaps a little long and flat, but it’s not a dealbreaker to me.

The Dial

Here is where the big difference between the P-101 and P-104 lies, and I’ll treat them separately as such.

The P-104 has an interesting and unique dial. It’s matte gray with white minute markers, and white unlumed hour markers at all but the cardinal positions. A chapter ring contains the other half of the slide rule complication and a couple of small lumed indicator arrows. All dial printing is very crisp and even; the chapter ring is quite legible enough for use. It’s another nice indication that O&W takes the small things seriously. 

Here is where the big difference between the P-101 and P-104 lies, and I’ll treat them separately as such. The P-104 has an interesting and unique dial. It’s matte gray with white minute markers, and white unlumed hour markers at all but the cardinal positions. A chapter ring contains the other half of the slide rule complication and a couple of small lumed indicator arrows. All dial printing is very crisp and even; the chapter ring is quite legible enough for use. It’s another nice indication that O&W takes the small things seriously.  At 3, 9, and 12 are large applied indices, framed in coarse but evenly brushed stainless steel and filled with deep orange lume. Unusually, the date window at 6 is also framed with stainless steel and a thin ring of orange lume, giving the impression that a regular index was just cut out to accommodate the date window. It’s an interesting effect, and a nice small detail. The handset is brushed with the same pattern as the indices; rather coarse for its size but appropriate to the watch’s aesthetics, and evenly done with no obvious burrs or sloppiness.The minute and hour hands are exceedingly simple; straight rectangles with a rounded bulge where they attach to the pinion. The minute hand breaks up the severity with its series of alternating lume filled and empty cutouts- an interesting touch that I’m not sure if I like or dislike. A polarizing design to be sure. The seconds hand has a very large lume filled arrow tip; I guess so you’d know in the dark that it’s running? It’s perhaps a bit larger than I would have chosen but fits the aesthetic well enough. The lume on the P-104 is decidedly subpar. It’s dim to start with and loses light very quickly, even when hit with an ultraviolet flashlight. The handset glows a good bit brighter than the markers, but even that isn’t much. The date window and chapter ring lume is so faint as to make me question whether or not it even was lumed. Not every watch has to compete with Seiko in this regard, but this is disappointing for a utilitarian watch at this price point.  The P-101: A similar dial layout with a date at 6 (no lumed frame) and lumed indices at 3, 6, 9, and 12. In place of the chapter ring there are extra long hour and minute markers. The effect is one of simplicity and clarity, as opposed to the beautiful clutter of the P-104. The handset is the same as the P-104, only on this watch every cutout in the minute hand is lumed. The lume everywhere is greenish instead of orange and is noticeably brighter and longer lasting. I don’t think there are any problems with it on this watch.   The crystals on the P-101 and P-104 are sapphire, of what is generally called top-hat style- flat on the top, but raised above the bezel with straight sides. The crystals are treated with an anti-reflective coating that is extremely effective. This is a feature I love- you may sing the praises of a domed crystal all day, but seeing a crisp watch dial through glass so clear as to appear to be missing is a beautiful aesthetic in its own right. This high clarity is typical of pilots’ and space watches; among others, Fortis is known for their ultra low-reflective crystals.

At 3, 9, and 12 are large applied indices, framed in coarse but evenly brushed stainless steel and filled with deep orange lume. Unusually, the date window at 6 is also framed with stainless steel and a thin ring of orange lume, giving the impression that a regular index was just cut out to accommodate the date window. It’s an interesting effect, and a nice small detail.

The handset is brushed with the same pattern as the indices; rather coarse for its size but appropriate to the watch’s aesthetics, and evenly done with no obvious burrs or sloppiness. The minute and hour hands are exceedingly simple; straight rectangles with a rounded bulge where they attach to the pinion. The minute hand breaks up the severity with its series of alternating lume filled and empty cutouts—an interesting touch that I’m not sure if I like or dislike. A polarizing design to be sure. The seconds hand has a very large lume filled arrow tip; I guess so you’d know in the dark that it’s running? It’s perhaps a bit larger than I would have chosen but fits the aesthetic well enough.

Ollech & Wajs Pilot Watches

The lume (seen a few pictures below) on the P-104 is decidedly subpar. It’s dim to start with and loses light very quickly, even when hit with an ultraviolet flashlight. The handset glows a good bit brighter than the markers, but even that isn’t much. The date window and chapter ring lume is so faint as to make me question whether or not it even was lumed. Not every watch has to compete with Seiko in this regard, but this is disappointing for a utilitarian watch at this price point.

Ollech & Wajs Pilot Watches

The P-101: A similar dial layout with a date at 6 (no lumed frame) and lumed indices at 3, 6, 9, and 12. In place of the chapter ring there are extra-long hour and minute markers. The effect is one of simplicity and clarity, as opposed to the beautiful clutter of the P-104.

Ollech & Wajs Pilot Watches

The handset is the same as the P-104, only on this watch every cutout in the minute hand is lumed. The lume everywhere is greenish instead of orange and is noticeably brighter and longer lasting. I don’t think there are any problems with it on this watch. 

Ollech & Wajs Pilot Watches

The crystals on the P-101 and P-104 are sapphire, of what is sometimes called top-hat style—flat on the top but raised above the bezel with straight sides. The crystals are treated with an anti-reflective coating that is extremely effective. This is a feature I love—you may sing the praises of a domed crystal all day but seeing a crisp watch dial through glass so clear as to appear to be missing is a beautiful aesthetic in its own right. This high clarity is typical of pilot and space watches; among others, Fortis is known for their ultra low-reflective crystals.

The Rest

The screwdown caseback contributes to the exorbitant 300m of water resistance but prevents the viewing of the custom engraved rotor; a decent tradeoff for a watch of this style. It’s nicely engraved with the O&W logo and the usual caseback data.

Ollech & Wajs Pilot Watches

The P-101 and P-104 both came to me on Ollech & Wajs’ own two stitch leather straps. While they seem nice enough and are supple and comfortable right away, time would really tell how well they break in and patina. The buckle is signed and well designed to sit flush with the strap when fastened.

These leather straps are quite long; I have a pretty average 7” wrist and I needed to use the last or second to last hole. To me these watches really sang on NATO straps—they just look like they belong, and a color other than the brown of the leather brings the orange or cream colored highlights to the forefront.

Ollech & Wajs Pilot Watches

The flatter case and long lugs don’t make it hug the wrist like some watches, but the well-sized case prevents it from being awkward or uncomfortable.

Ollech & Wajs Pilot Watches

The Ollech & Wajs P-101 and P-104 are both excellent, classically styled pilot watches. Design-wise they occupy an attractive middle ground between the fliegers of the 1940s and the modern space/pilot watches of brands such as Fortis, Omega, and Citizen. With the exception of the lume on the P-104, I found little to criticize about their design or construction. A rock-solid Swiss movement, a brand with some history and a design ethos of its own, and excellent construction and attention to detail make the P-101 and P-104 appealing candidates for anyone in search of a no-nonsense pilot watch.

You can learn more and buy directly from the Ollech & Wajs website.